tain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka joined us from the eastern route the day after we crossed the Karakoram. We came upon grass and wood at Suget, four miles from Shahidulla, and halted there a day, to give our tired cattle a rest. We were there met by some of the Yarkand officials, who came from Shahidulla to receive and entertain us with the usual profuse hospitality of the country, in the form of a "dastar-khwan" (table-cloth) of soups, stews, sweets, bread, fruit, and tea. The place, with its bushes, grass, and running water, appeared charming to us after the barren frozen wastes of the Karakoram. The air, notwithstanding 7o of frost at night, felt soft and mild in comparison to what we had just left. We moved to Shahidulla on the 17th. Here we were received by the Yarkand authorities, those of Kashmir having accompanied us, and arranged for our progress so far. The former had a number of Kirghiz yaks ready to relieve our baggage ponies. Very tired did the ponies look after their hard march and heavy work in the rarefied air of the Karakoram heights. Mr. Johnson gave a feast of many sheep to the Ladak, Kurgil, and Dras men, previous to the return journey with him to Nubra and Leh. Captain Biddulph joined on the 18th, and then, for the first time, the whole of the officers of the mission were assembled together in camp. Captain Biddulph's party brought very complete reports of the Chang-Chemno route. Notwithstanding the easier nature of the country there, and the belief which at one time prevailed, that the traders were anxious to adopt it in preference to the Karakoram road, the latter continues to be used by them to the total exclusion of the former. The old road offers to them the advantages of a considerable saving in distance on the whole journey, and less ground to pass over, where carriage of food for man and beast is absolutely necessary, advantages which, in their experience, outbalance the toil and risks of a rougher route and the severe Susser pass. Khoten is the most flourishing, and in point of productive industry the most important of the provinces of Kashghar. It has no direct trade with India, though it is very advantageously situated for such. The desire is to keep Khoten secluded on account of its gold fields, which contribute largely to the state treasury. An easy route from Leh leads over the less elevated plains to the east of the Lingzi Thang, by the Pangong lake and the vicinity of Rudok, to Polu, the frontier village of Khoten in that direction. The great superiority of this route consists in fuel being abundant, and a good supply of grass procurable throughout; it is, moreover, said to be quite practicable for the hardy Bactrian camel, which is extensively bred and used in Khoten. But a great portion of it lies in Chinese territory; and while the "pushm" (shawl wool) merchants of the adjoining districts under British and Kashmir rule are permitted to frequent the Rudok district markets, the national obstructive policy is opposed to any through traffic. Captain Trotter carried on his journey an indiarubber boat, by means of which he and Captain Biddulph navigated for the first time the waters of the Pangong lake, lying at the great elevation of 13,900 feet above the sea. The party was accompanied by a flock of the load-carrying sheep of Tibet, laden with flour and grain, a description of which is given in Moorcroft's Travels and Cunningham's Ladak. The following is Captain Biddulph's account of this novel transport train with which he joined our camp at Shahidulla : E "I left Tankse on 18th September, taking with me thirty sheep carrying loads of grain and flour. Wishing merely to test their marching capabilities, I looked upon the supplies they carried as extra, and their loads remained intact till within four marches of Shahidoolla, when I was forced to commence using them. "The Tartars usually make their sheep carry a load of 32 lbs., and march seven or eight miles a day only, making frequent halts; as, however, I expected to be marching hard at times, I put only a load of 20 lbs. on each sheep. Beyond this I took no care of them, and they simply took their chance. "A great part of the route was over rough and stony ground, but only one sheep broke down, though many of them showed signs of footsoreness at times. "The loads, secured by breast and breech ropes, ride well, sinking into the fleece, and not being liable to shift. "On fair ground, where they travelled with a broad front, they marched at the rate of one and three-quarter mile an hour; a large number would no doubt travel slower, and much must depend on the breadth of the road. "The greatest difficulty they had to contend with was crossing streams, and while marching in the Karakash valley they were sometimes obliged to cross the river three or four times in a day. Not only were their loads liable to become damaged, but the weight of water hanging in their fleeces, and on several occasions freezing, greatly impeded progress. "On the days on which they had no grass, they had literally nothing to eat, as they refused grain, not being accustomed to it. "One man was sufficient to manage the lot, and two men, I should say, could easily drive and manage a hundred. "On arrival in camp they were unloaded, and turned out to shift for themselves till dark, when they were herded for the night. "The fact that a flock of sheep carrying 20 lbs. loads should be able to march 330 miles in a month with only one casualty, through a country in which forage is always scanty, and at a very inclement season of the year, is remarkable. After the first march the elevation was never less than 11,000 feet, and the thermometer at night sank to 15° and 16° below zero. The sheep, however, apparently did not feel either cold or elevation. Future exploring parties on the Karakoram will, I feel certain, find a flock of sheep a most useful addition to their camp. Not only are they very easily looked after, but they can feed themselves as they go along, which ponies cannot do, and can pick up a subsistence on the scanty pasture grounds and among the rocks where horses would starve. Besides this, when their loads are disposed of, they can themselves be eaten. |
