within a mile of the crest, when the rise, though still very easy, is somewhat steeper (about 400 feet in the last mile). We had a lovely day for the trip, and Captain Trotter was able to carry on his work right up to the pass, which he made to be 12,760 feet. On reaching the pass we did not come at once, as we had expected, into view of the lake, but had to go along a spur for about three miles in a northerly direction, when we burst suddenly into full view of the lake, and a perfect forest of peaks beyond extending from west to east. We were here about thirty-two miles from the Russian fort of Narin, by the Tash Robat pass, which lay immediately opposite us.

The lake lies east and west, and according to Russian accounts its elevation is 11,050 feet above sea-level, the length 14 miles, average breadth 6, depth inconsiderable, and water brackish. It has no outlet: it rises with the melting of the snow, and falls in the dry season. The plateau in which it lies extends towards the east into the Aksai table-land, where the Aksai stream rises, and flowing eastward, joins the Kashghar river below Aksu. The opening to the west leads towards the source of the Arpa, which finds its way into the Jaxartes (Sir). When we saw it, the lake was frozen and covered with snow, which made it difficult to distinguish between it and the nearly level plain by which it is surrounded, and which was covered with a white saline efflorescence.

Looking from our elevated position above the lake, there appeared to be two ranges of mountains, the Torugat, on a spur of which we were standing, and the Tashrobat, on the opposite side of the lake. Both are portions of the Tian Shan range, which westward, like the Karakoram eastward, seems to lose its identity, and merges into several comparatively unimportant

K

minor chains, of which it is impossible to say which is the main one. Hence there is some difficulty in defining the watershed, and consequently the boundary between Russia and Kashghar. The general run of the Torugat range is from west to east; the peaks also decrease in height as the range approaches the pass : the highest within a few miles of it being about 15,000 feet ; others, away to the west, being apparently 2000 feet or more higher. East of the pass, again, the hills are still lower, but it was impossible to judge of their general direction, though, from the Russian maps, it would appear to be south-east. We had hoped to cross the high undulating lands eastward to the Terekty pass, thirty or thirty-five miles distant, but the officials seemed to think we had seen enough, and we had to return to Kashghar.

Notwithstanding the intensity of the cold, Captain Trotter carried on his special work successfully throughout the journey. He had to take star observations, with the thermometer standing at 10o below zero, a bitter wind blowing, and no shelter available. To Captain Trotter belongs the distinction of being the first to carry the scientific survey of England across that of Russia in the East; the road from Kashghar to the crest of the Tian Shan being a link in the chain across Asia which is now common to both.

Many of the Kashghari servants slept out in the open by the horses, and appeared none the worse of the exposure. We were particularly struck with the excellent church discipline kept up by our Muhammadan hosts, who regularly intoned the call to prayers, and assembled outside the tents in obedience to it, at break of day, in a temperature of 25° below zero. Our Indian Muhammadan servants made no pretence of such extreme piety in that severe climate.

On the return journey we saw Kirghiz near Chakmak loading camels with blocks of ice cut in the Toyan, for transport up a side valley, where they were located with their flocks, their supply of water being thus obtained till the approach of warm weather releases the frost-bound springs. In leaving the Artush valley, we observed high up in the vertical face of the ridge, where the stream cuts its way through towards the Kashghar plain, three excavated chambers, each with an inner apartment behind. The only history of these excavations I could obtain was, that some eighty years ago the Chinese Amban (Governor), of Kashghar had a daughter so surpassingly lovely that all his friends and neighbours wished to marry her, and his enemies strove to steal her. The Amban idolised his daughter, and fearing to lose her had these chambers made and sumptuously fitted for her reception. An enemy desiring to do him the utmost injury tried to poison the food which used to be let down to her from the summit of the precipice; and the Amban after that, in suspicion of all prepared food, subsisted her on grapes. A wasp concealed in the grapes stung the beauty in the throat, and caused her death.

CHAPTER VI.

CAPTAIN BIDDULPII'S DEPARTURE FOR MARALBASHI-HIS ACCOUNT OF JOURNEY AND COUNTRY-FOREST-WILD CAMELS-GAZELLE-HAWKING PHEASANTS AND HARES -MARALBASHI TOWN AND FORT-DOLAN PEOPLE-SOLDIER'S STORY-TIGERSTRAINED HUNTING-EAGLES-ANCIENT CITY-STAGES TO AKSU - RETURN TO KASHGHAR-PRESENTS OF GAME-OVIS POLI-BLACK IBEX-GAZELLE-FROZEN DRAWING STUDIES-MARAL-WILD BOAR HUNTING-MR. FORSYTH'S VISIT TO ARTUSH-DR. STOLICZKA AND CAPTAIN TROTTER'S EXPLORATIONS-TURKISH PROTECTORATE OF KASHGHAR-YANGI SHAHR.

MARALBASHI (the stag's haunt), lying away to the east towards Aksu, was visited by Captain Biddulph while we were away in the Tian Shan. Captain Biddulph is the first European traveller in that direction, and the following is his description of the country and journey :

"The Ameer's permission for my going to Maralbashi having been granted, I left Yengi Shahr, Kashghar, on 31st December, accompanied by Mirza Sufee, a Punjabashi, who had orders to look after me and make all necessary arrangements.

"I reached Maralbashi in seven marches, the distance from Kashghar being about 120 miles. The road runs for the entire distance along the course of the Kizzil Su or Kashghar river, which it crosses about sixty-six miles from Yengi Shahr.

"Passing the villages of Barin, Randomar, Arowah, and Yandomel, we crossed by bridges two considerable streams, the Terbuchek and the Chokanak, flowing from the south into the Kizzil, about three miles apart, and darkness having come on we halted for the night in the village of Sang.